How to Make Farmer Fresh Cheese - Self-sufficient

The discovery of preservin milk as cheese is to me one of civilization’s finest accomplishments. I can only imagine the look of surprise on a nomad’s face when, after a long journey, he developed a thirst, untied a pouch (made from an animal’s rennetladen tomach) into which fresh milk had been poured that morning, only to discover tender curds bobbing in milky whey. The whey still did its job of hydrating, and the curd satisfied on a deeper level. That’s how I suppose cheese was born, probably in ancient Egypt or Babylonia, around 5000 bce. It gives me great pleasure to know that artisanal cheese making today thrives around the world.

The mellow flavors of fresh cheese, still soft and squeaky, taste of the pasture, as wistful as a memory. It is redolent of the herbs, grasses, and flowers upon which the cows, goats, and sheep thrived in the springtime (as in chévre) and sustained in the winter (as in hardy, cave-aged cheese such as Swiss Gruyère). It only makes sense to treat this special concoction as gently as it was conceived, spooning it onto yeasty toast, drizzling it with honey, or perhaps sprinkling it instead with fresh-cut herbs.

I make cheese in the tradition of our ancestors, with as little futzing as possible. Simply put, cheese forms when the proteins in milk are forced to separate and curdle into the fabled curds and whey. Curdling can occur either using rennet (which comes from the lining of an animal’s stomach) or an acid, such as vinegar or fresh lemon juice. I prefer vinegar — it’s easy to use and less expensive than rennet. Note, though, that cheese made without rennet cannot be aged — it must be consumed fresh. Along with the best milk you can find and just a touch of sea salt, you can make something that speaks of history yet tastes as fresh as a new day.

Make ½ Pound (1 CUP) Farmer Cheese

I always have a fresh round of soft ricotta-like farmer cheese in my refrigerator. It’s so simple to make, and excellent anytime, whether spread on buttery toast for breakfast or enjoyed for dessert with figs and honey. One of my favorite things to do is reunite the landscape of the pasture on a salad plate. Bring elements like foraged dandelion greens or lamb’s-quarters, farmer cheese, pears, or figs together for a salad that speaks for time, place, and season.

In a medium pot over medium heat, put

• 4 cups whole milk
• 1 cups buttermilk
• 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

Warm the milk mixture until it reaches 175°F on a digital thermometer (the milk will be almost to a simmer), then turn off the heat, cover the pot, and set aside until the mixture separates into curds and whey, about 45 minutes.

Carefully ladle the mixture into a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a large bowl. When the whey has dripped into the bowl, lift the cheesecloth and transfer the curds to a medium bowl. Using a wooden spoon, stir in

• 1 tablespoon sea salt

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled. It can stay in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks.