Sprouts are consumed as quickly as they are produced. All the nutrients required to grow microgreens and sprouts are provided by the seed and the cotyledons, so fertilizing is not necessary. But growing larger plants such as salad greens and herbs will require a feeding program once they put on size. This can be done in one of two ways: adding an organic fertilizer to the soil when planting, or by using a liquid fertilizer when watering. A combination of both can be done, as well, but be sure to read the recommended rates on the product labels and reduce this to a weak solution for feeding seedlings and young plants.
Plastic Bottle Herb Planter
Plastic soda bottles are used often to grow greens. Many experts consider them safe enough, but make sure to check the recycling symbol on the bottle. Do not use bottles labeled with a 3, 6, or 7, as these contain forms of plastic that are known to outgas hazardous chemicals. And if you try this method, swap out for a new bottle each time you begin a fresh batch of herbs and recycle the old bottle.
What you will need
- Empty 2-liter plastic soda bottle
- A sharp knife or scissors
- Cotton cording
- Crop cover fabric, small square
- Soilless mix
- Herb transplants or seeds
1. Remove the label off the soda bottle and wash it in hot, soapy water.
2. Using a sharp knife, cut off the top one-third of the bottle, creating two pieces. The top, cone-shaped portion will be inverted into the bottom half that holds the water.
3. Cut a piece of the cotton cord long enough so that when doubled in half it will extend down through the top cone to touch the bottom of the lower segment bottle—the segment that holds the water. This will be the wicking system.
4. Folding the cord in half, push the looped end through the open screw top of the cone to about halfway up the cone-shaped segment. Cut a small square of crop cover fabric, then punch a small hole in the center. Push the wicking cord through this so that the cloth lies over the bottle cap opening. The fabric will prevent soilless mix from pouring through the hole into the water chamber.
5. Use the bottom half of the bottle to support the inverted cone, then add some soilless mix.
6. If you are using transplants, make certain that the root zone comes in contact with the rope by wrapping it around the root ball, adding more soil around the sides to support it. If starting from seeds, fill the cone with soil and sprinkle the seeds on top.
7. Once the cone is planted, add water with a fertilizer solution to the bottom half of the bottle, then replace the cone so that the cotton cording is immersed in the liquid. To avoid burn, always use a weak, diluted fertilizer to start young plants.
8. A transplant can be moved to a sunny window right away. Seeds, however, will require a misting of water and a few days under a plastic cover to begin sprouting. As soon as you see the first two seed leaves develop, the planter can be moved to a bright light source.
Tip: Any natural-fiber cording will work, provided it wicks water. Some synthetic fibers will not move the water up through capillary action, so avoid them. Wool yarn or cotton cording works well. A capillary-matting material could be cut in long strips and used as the wicking cord.
Terra Cotta Stacking Planter
A popular method of stacking pots has made its rounds on Pinterest the last couple of years. Topsy Turvy planters are made by using a central support pole made of a strong material such as an iron rod and stacking the pots on an angle so they appear to be tipping over in each direction.
This method requires driving a rebar or other strong metal pole into the ground to support a large stack of pots. However, the design can be adapted for a smaller version that fits well on a countertop. This Topsy Turvy design is fun indeed, but can be difficult to water, since the angle of the pots can allow water to spill over the edge when it pools at the rim. If you desire a sleeker look and a planter that is easier to maintain, simply stacking the pots vertically from largest to smallest might be a better option for a countertop planter.
For this project, you can paint the terra cotta pots to match your decor or buy any pots that you prefer. I chose pots in a mocha terra cotta color, which paired well with the warm colors of my kitchen.
What you will need
- 4 terra cotta pots, ranging in size from large to small
- Terra cotta saucer for the base pot
- Short bamboo support stake
- Soilless mix
- Herbs or mesclun green seeds (at least six)
1. The base pot will be the largest. A wide bowl shape works well as the first pot for a countertop version, since the second pot will sit flat in the center of the first pot. Mix soilless medium with a little organic granular fertilizer such worm castings, and fill the bottom pot. Tap the pot on a hard surface to settle the soil somewhat, so the second pot will not sink too far as the upper, pots are added.
2. Place the second pot filled with soilless mix into the center of the base pot.
3. Push a bamboo stake through the drainage hole of the second pot through to the bottom of the drainage hole of the base pot until it hits the saucer. This will add some support to the stack and act as a guide for the upper pots. The stake should be tall enough to get through all the pots; it can be trimmed after the stack is done.
4. Add the next two pots to the stack, finishing with the smallest on top. Fill them with soilless mix as you go.
5. Now you can plant the herbs or micro-greens. If you’re using transplants, the root balls will require space to fit around the pots. You may need to break these up somewhat to fit them in. If growing from seed, simply sprinkle the seeds around the soilless mix in each pot, being careful not to let the seeds drop down into the next pot—especially if you plan on seeding a different plant into each level.
6. Place the planter near a sunny window, or use a grow light.
Hanging Herb Planter
This vertical hanging planter is a perfect project for anywhere that space is an issue. A fun DIY project, the simple macramé hanger makes a decorative edible feature in the kitchen.
Watering this planter can be a bit messy if you choose not to use a drip tray in each pocket, so try using insert pots instead. Depending on the size of the terra cotta pot you choose, a 4-inch or 6-inch plastic pot wrapped with a plastic sandwich baggie can be slipped into each terra cotta pot to avoid spills.
What you will need
- 3 terra cotta pots
- Acrylic paints (green and white)
- Lettered stencil
- Yarn or wool
- Macramé ring
- Soilless mix
- Herbs
1. Paint the pots in the color you desire with an acrylic paint intended for terra cotta pots. If you wish, have fun with a lettering stencil and name each pot for the herb it will contain.
2. Place each plastic potted herb into one of the terra cotta pots, then set it aside.
3. For the macramé hanger, choose a thick yarn or wool as bulky as you can find in your color preference. Cut three pieces, each about 4½ yards long. If you are using pots larger than 4 inches, add another ½ yard or so to allow for more length.
4. Take the ring (metal or wood) and slide it down until it’s in the center of the yarn so that half of the strands are on either side, then make a simple square knot tied tightly to the ring.
5. You will now have six strands. Divide these into pairs, forming three sets of pairs. Hang the ring to something solid, as this will allow you to use gravity to set your lengths when you do the next few knots.
6. Now measure down 15 inches from the top knot and make another knot in the two strands hanging to the left. Repeat this with the middle and right pairs, making sure they are all approximately the same distance from the topknot.
7. Gather all six strands together and do another square knot, about 4 inches below the last three knots. This is the first pocket.
8. For the second pocket, measure 6 inches from the square knot. This provides room to insert the plant below the first pocket. (Again, adjust the lengths if you use bigger pots.) Divide the six strands into three pairs, and knot each pair again. Gather together, move down another 4 inches, and square-knot the six strands together.
9. For the last basket, measure 6 inches down and knot, then 4 inches down, repeating the steps above, finishing with a square knot. If you wish, add a wood bead or piece of driftwood at the end and put another square knot below to hold it in place.
10. Time to put potted herbs in the hanger. Space out the strands so that they securely hold the pots in place. Find a lovely window, hang from the ceiling, and enjoy!
Mason Jar Self-Watering Planter
This project is similar to the Mason jar planter from Modern Sprout, but this DIY version uses a plastic net pot. If you are not able to find a net pot, try finding a large mesh tea strainer that will fit through the top of the Mason jar you are using.
What you will need
- Large Mason jar
- Net pot (or tea strainer)
- Cotton cording
- Cover crop fabric, small piece (if needed)
- Soilless mix
- Herb transplant (or herb seeds)
1. If using a tea strainer, cut a small hole in the bottom.
2. Cut a piece of cotton cording so that, when folded in half, the length is long enough to stretch from the center of the net pot or strainer to the bottom of the jar.
3. Push the cotton cording up through the hole of the strainer or through the holes of the net pot so that it is sitting at least halfway in the middle of the pot.
4. Line the net pot with some cover crop fabric if the holes are large.
5. Add soilless mix, and plant the herb transplant. If you are using seeds instead, sprinkle them on the surface of the soil and press lightly to ensure good contact.
6. Fill the Mason jar with a fertilizer-water solution up to the bottom of where the net pot will reach.
7. Suspend the cotton cording down into the water, and place the net pot inside the jar.
8. If you planted seed, cover the top of the jar with a plastic baggie or wrap, and allow the seeds to sprout away from a bright light source.
9. Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover andplace in a sunny location.
10. Add a weak fertilizer solution to the jar, as needed.
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